Master the Art of Wallpaper Installation with Expert Tips and Visual Guides

Transform your renovation project with professional-level wallpapering skills.

1. Preparing Your Space
2. Removing Old Wallpaper
3. Stripping Paint
4. Wall Preparation
5. Measuring and Cutting Wallpaper
6. Choosing the Starting Point
7. Applying Wallpaper Strips
8. Wallpapering Inside Corners
9. Wallpapering Outside Corners
10. Working Around Windows and Doors
11. Wallpapering Behind Radiators
12. Wallpapering Around Pipes
13. Wallpapering Near Outlets and Switches
14. Fixing Post-Installation Imperfections
15. Additional Interior Design and Renovation Resources

Preparing Your Space

Clear out furniture and cover immovable items with plastic sheeting. Remove shelves, decorations, electrical outlets, switches, and, if possible, door trims and baseboards for a clean working area.

Wallpapering is a wet process, so ensure the electricity is turned off to avoid hazards. If shutting off power to one room is not feasible, insulate wire ends and cover them with caps.

For rooms with limited natural light, set up temporary lighting using extension cords and desk lamps from adjacent rooms.

Protect moisture-sensitive flooring by covering it with polyethylene film before you begin.

Removing Old Wallpaper

Applying new wallpaper over old layers usually results in poor adhesion and visible bubbles, especially if the previous wallpaper had textured patterns. Additionally, trapped moisture can lead to mold growth behind the wallpaper.

Use a putty knife to gently lift and peel off old paper wallpaper. To ease removal, dampen the surface with water using a roller or spray bottle, then scrape off the softened paper and clean residues with a wet sponge.

Adding a mild detergent to the water can improve effectiveness, particularly on stubborn wallpaper.

For non-paper wallpapers like vinyl or non-woven types, perforate the surface with a needle roller before wetting to allow better water penetration.

Alternatively, use specialized wallpaper removal solutions that dissolve adhesive for tougher cases.

Stripping Paint

Wallpaper adheres poorly to painted surfaces, so removing loose or peeling paint is essential. Scraping with a putty knife is effective but time-consuming.

Power tools such as a rotary hammer with a wide chisel or an angle grinder with a sanding attachment can speed up the process but generate significant dust—wear a mask for safety.

Chemical paint strippers applied with rollers or brushes soften paint for easier removal. Use these in well-ventilated areas with protective gloves, goggles, and respirators due to their toxicity.

A heat gun can also soften paint for scraping, though it produces strong odors requiring respiratory protection.

Wall Preparation

After removing old coverings, prime your walls to prevent mold and ensure proper adhesion of filler and wallpaper. Apply primer from bottom to top using a roller and a brush for corners.

Allow the primer to dry fully, typically 10–15 hours or as specified on the product label.

Fill minor imperfections with spackling compound using a wide putty knife, smoothing evenly. Once dry, sand the surface with abrasive mesh attached to a sanding block, then clean dust with a brush and damp cloth.

Apply a second coat of primer or a diluted wallpaper adhesive solution (around 300 grams per 10–12 liters of water) for added adhesion. Alternatively, mix two cups of PVA glue in 10 liters of water as a budget-friendly primer, though it lacks antifungal properties.

Once the final primer layer dries, your walls are ready for wallpaper.

Measuring and Cutting Wallpaper

If your wallpaper pattern does not require matching, measure the wall height with a tape measure and cut strips accordingly. Fold the wallpaper in half and cut along the fold for straight edges.

For uneven walls, measure each strip individually.

When matching patterns, cut strips from two rolls simultaneously to minimize waste. Lay the first strip face-up, align the second roll to match the pattern, then cut the next strip accordingly.

Choosing the Starting Point

Wallpaper is applied strip by strip around the room. While the starting point can vary, many prefer to begin at a window edge because windows typically offer a straighter reference than corners or doorways.

Older paper wallpapers are overlapped, and starting near a window minimizes visible seams in daylight. For wallpapers with patterns that butt together, starting at a door or corner is also acceptable.

For patterned wallpaper, start in a less visible area such as behind a wardrobe to avoid mismatched seams in narrow spaces.

Mark a perfectly vertical guideline on the wall using a level or plumb line to ensure the first strip is aligned correctly, preventing crooked installation.

Applying Wallpaper Strips

Close all windows and doors tightly to prevent drafts, which can cause wallpaper to peel.

Check the wallpaper roll instructions to determine whether adhesive should be applied to the wallpaper or directly on the wall, and note the recommended soaking time.

Follow the adhesive manufacturer's mixing instructions carefully. Choose an adhesive with mold-resistant and eco-friendly components if possible.

If adhesive is applied to the wallpaper, fold the strip with adhesive sides inward multiple times without creasing and allow it to soak for the recommended time.

Align the top of the strip with the vertical guideline on the wall, extending a few centimeters onto the ceiling and baseboard.

Smooth the strip from the center outward and top to bottom using a wallpaper brush or roller to remove air bubbles.

Use a pin to puncture any trapped air bubbles and smooth out the surface.

Trim excess wallpaper at the top and bottom by folding it tightly to create a cutting edge, then cut with a utility knife or use a putty knife as a guide.

Subsequent strips are applied edge-to-edge or overlapped depending on wallpaper type, using the previous strip’s edge as a guide.

Press seams with a small rubber roller and clean off excess adhesive with a soft damp sponge.

Wallpapering Inside Corners

Apply the first strip so it extends 1–2 cm into the corner. Cut it to the required width beforehand. Overlap the next strip starting at the corner.

For thick wallpaper, the double layer might be visible. In this case, press the overlapped area firmly with a putty knife, score along the edge with a utility knife, remove the excess strips, and smooth the seam.

Wallpapering Outside Corners

Similar to inside corners, extend the first strip beyond the corner by several centimeters, then overlap the second strip.

Use a straight edge and utility knife to trim the overlapping edges flush with the corner, remove excess material, and smooth the seam with a roller.

Working Around Windows and Doors

Apply wallpaper strips as usual. Cut excess material carefully along window and door edges, trimming with a utility knife and pressing the wallpaper firmly into place.

Wallpapering Behind Radiators

Measure and cut wallpaper strips to the radiator height. Make vertical cuts where the radiator mounts to the wall, apply adhesive generously, tuck the wallpaper behind the radiator, and smooth it out.

Wallpapering Around Pipes

Start applying the strip, making a cut where the pipe begins. Wrap the wallpaper around the pipe, trim excess material, and smooth the surface.

Wallpapering Near Outlets and Switches

Mark the outlet or switch edges on the wallpaper with diagonal lines. Carefully cut openings, then smooth the wallpaper around them with a roller.

Fixing Post-Installation Imperfections

While the adhesive is still wet, adjust strips by gently pulling them together. Once dry, this is no longer possible, so work carefully.

To fix air bubbles, inject adhesive underneath with a syringe, then smooth with a roller or cloth.

If edges peel, apply adhesive with a brush or syringe, press firmly, and hold for a few minutes.

For wide gaps between strips, cut a narrow strip from leftover wallpaper and glue it in place. For narrow gaps, paint the edge with matching paint or use a marker.

Avoid ventilating the room until the wallpaper is fully dry: about 12 hours for paper, 24 hours for non-woven, and up to 48 hours for vinyl wallpaper. Drying times may increase with high humidity or low temperatures. Touch the wall to confirm dryness before airing out.

Additional Interior Design and Renovation Resources

• 6 Handy Apps for Renovation, Space Planning, and Interior Design →
• Renovation: Where Not to Cut Costs →
• 25 Essential Tools for Home and Renovation from AliExpress →
• 14 Apps and Services for Interior Design →
• 10 Inspiring Living Room Design Ideas →
• Creative Design Tips for Narrow Rooms →
• Expanding Small Bedrooms: Designer Ideas →
• Designing Children's Rooms: Bright, Practical, and Unique Ideas →
• Effective Tips for Designing Small Kitchens →

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