What Is Collagen and Why Your Skin Needs It

Collagen is available in various forms: oral supplements, topical applications, and injectable treatments. Here, we explain when and why you might consider each option.

What Is Collagen?

Collagen is a vital protein and the most abundant one in the human body. It forms the foundation of connective tissues, binding the body together. The word "collagen" derives from the Greek word "kolla," meaning glue. Tendons, cartilage, blood vessels, young bone tissue, muscles, and skin rely heavily on collagen for their structure. In fact, collagen makes up about 70% of the skin’s composition, providing it with smoothness, firmness, and elasticity.

If Collagen Is Naturally Present in the Body, Why Should I Care About It?

Collagen molecules typically cluster together to form fibrils—long, thin protein fibers that act like springs, holding tissues together firmly while preventing them from getting too close.

However, collagen fibers are fragile and can degrade due to various factors, including:

• Ultraviolet (UV) radiation;
• Temperature fluctuations;
• Stress;
• Hormonal changes;
• Diets high in sugar and refined carbohydrates;
• Smoking.

In youth, these factors have less impact because the body produces ample collagen to repair damaged fibrils, and stress levels tend to be lower.

As we age, collagen production gradually declines. Fibrils break down faster than the body can replace them, leading to issues in bones, muscles, and blood vessels.

The skin is the first to show signs of collagen loss since it faces the brunt of environmental damage. Damaged collagen fibers can no longer keep the epidermis smooth and firm, resulting in fine lines and wrinkles.

As fibrils continue to deteriorate, wrinkles deepen and skin begins to sag due to gravity.

Another reason to support collagen is the presence of scars. When cuts, deep scratches, or acne heal, the body sometimes lacks sufficient collagen to restore the skin properly, resulting in atrophic scars—depressed marks in the epidermis, such as those seen with post-acne scars.

Restoring collagen levels can help smooth these scars, making them much less noticeable.

Can Collagen Be Maintained or Restored in the Skin?

Yes, collagen can be categorized as endogenous and exogenous:

• Endogenous collagen is naturally produced by the body;
• Exogenous collagen comes from external sources.

When endogenous collagen production declines, it’s possible to supplement with exogenous collagen through three main methods:

• Oral supplements (commonly known as drinkable collagen);
• Topical skincare products applied directly to affected skin areas;
• Injectable treatments.

Where Does Synthetic Collagen Come From?

There are three primary types of synthetic collagen:

1. Marine Collagen

Derived from the skin and cartilage of fish, marine collagen closely resembles natural human collagen in structure.

2. Bovine Collagen

Produced from the skin and cartilage of cattle, this is the most affordable type of synthetic collagen.

3. Hydrolyzed Collagen

This form is made from collagen fragments—specific amino acids rather than whole molecules. Due to smaller particle size, hydrolyzed collagen penetrates deeper into the skin compared to marine or bovine collagen.

Raw materials for hydrolyzed collagen can also include plant proteins, like wheat protein, which contain collagen-like fragments.

How Does Oral Collagen Work?

The primary goal of oral collagen is to support the body’s own collagen synthesis. The body requires three key components to produce collagen:

• Amino acids glycine and proline, essential building blocks of collagen molecules;
• Vitamin C;
• Copper.

During digestion, oral collagen breaks down into these amino acids. In the presence of vitamin C and copper, it can aid in repairing fibrils, improving skin elasticity and hydration as it ages.

However, a limitation of oral collagen supplements is that the body decides where to allocate the amino acids. There’s no guarantee the collagen will be used specifically for skin repair. Therefore, taking collagen supplements might not always lead to visible skin improvements.

How Does Collagen in Creams and Other Skincare Products Work?

Collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the dermis, so they cannot directly repair damaged fibrils.

Nonetheless, collagen-containing creams and serums improve skin appearance by increasing hydration. These products create a protective film on the skin surface, reducing moisture loss and leaving the epidermis smooth and nourished.

To enhance this "film-forming" effect, skincare products often combine collagen with hyaluronic acid, which works synergistically to boost skin hydration.

How Do Collagen Injections Work?

Injectable collagen treatments offer a more advanced and effective way to deliver collagen directly into the dermis. Bovine-derived collagen from cattle cartilage and skin was the first filler approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for subcutaneous injections.

Injected collagen serves multiple purposes:

• It repairs damaged protein fibers;
• Stimulates the skin’s natural production of endogenous collagen;
• Attracts moisture, enhancing skin hydration. This effect can be amplified with combined fillers containing both collagen and hyaluronic acid.

In the United States, collagen injections have been officially used since 1981. Newer products have since emerged, such as the gel "Collost" available in some markets. Research published in a clinical dermatology journal shows that such injections improve skin smoothness and firmness, reduce wrinkle depth, promote endogenous collagen synthesis, and significantly even out skin texture, especially in cases of atrophic scars.

Are Collagen Injections Safe?

Since collagen is a natural biomaterial for humans, injections generally have minimal side effects. However, individuals with hypersensitivity may experience allergic reactions. If you consider collagen injections for skin restoration, always consult a qualified dermatologist or licensed cosmetologist. A professional can assess your health and provide recommendations to minimize risks.

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